Eleanor Whitcombe
Work with the Building, Not Against It
Older homes have character, but they were built before energy efficiency was a priority. Traditional construction — solid brick walls, lime plaster, timber floors and sash windows — manages moisture by breathing. If you trap damp inside, you risk condensation, mould and decay. So the goal is simple: slow heat loss, block unwanted draughts, and still allow air to move where it needs to. Start with the cheapest, least invasive measures: draught-proofing, loft insulation and thermal curtains.
Draught-Proof Windows Without Sealing Them Shut
Windows are often the biggest source of draughts, especially sash windows. A cold draught can make a room feel several degrees cooler, tempting you to turn up the thermostat. But don't seal a traditional window so tightly that it can't breathe. On a windy day, use a lit incense stick or a damp hand to find gaps around the sash, frame and meeting rail. Fit brush seals or flexible draught strips to sash windows; they allow movement while cutting air flow. For casement windows, use self-adhesive foam or rubber seals. Avoid spray foam or silicone that locks the window shut — you need ventilation and emergency escape.
Secondary glazing adds a removable inner pane, creating an insulating air gap. Keep trickle vents clear and working. They provide controlled background ventilation without wasting too much heat.
- Fit brush or wiper seals to sash windows.
- Use foam or rubber strips on casement windows.
- Add removable secondary glazing for an extra layer.
- Keep trickle vents open and unobstructed.
Loft Insulation That Lets the Roof Breathe
Heat rises, and in many older homes a huge amount disappears through the loft. If your insulation is thin, patchy or compressed, topping it up is one of the most cost-effective improvements you can make. Aim for around 270mm of mineral wool in a cold loft, but don't squash it into gaps — compressed insulation loses effectiveness. Leave the roof space cold and ventilated. Never block eaves vents or air bricks; air must circulate above the insulation to carry away moisture. Use eaves ventilators or insulation trays to keep a clear path. If you insulate between rafters, leave a 50mm air gap and choose breathable, vapour-permeable materials such as wood fibre or sheep's wool. Finally, insulate the loft hatch and fit a draught excluder around its frame.
Thermal Curtains, Pelmets and the Power of Layers
Curtains are not just decoration. A thick, well-fitted curtain traps air between the fabric and the window, acting as extra insulation. Choose floor-length curtains with a thermal lining or interlining. Dense fabrics — wool, heavy cotton, velvet — work best. Fit them on a track that overlaps in the middle, or add a pelmet or valance to stop warm air escaping over the top. Close curtains at dusk and open them in the morning. Keep them clear of radiators; if heat is pushed up behind the fabric, it escapes through the window. For patio doors, a heavy door curtain drawn at night makes a real difference.
- Choose floor-length, interlined or thermal-lined curtains.
- Use a pelmet or overlapping track to reduce top draughts.
- Keep curtains clear of radiators.
- Close at dusk; open during the day.
Floors, Chimneys and Doors — the Hidden Draughts
Draughts often sneak in where you least expect. Original floorboards can have gaps that let cold air rise from the void below. Seal them with a flexible, breathable filler, or use a rug and underlay. Don't block air bricks that ventilate the floor void; they prevent rot. Chimneys are another major culprit: an open fireplace can suck warm air out of a room even when there's no fire. Fit a chimney balloon or draught excluder when not in use, but remove it before lighting a fire. For doors, fit brush or rubber seals around the frame, a letterbox brush, a keyhole cover and a fabric draught excluder at the bottom.
A Room-by-Room Approach
Every older home is different, so work room by room. Start with the rooms you use most — the living room and main bedroom. Draught-proof windows and doors first, then top up loft insulation, then add thermal curtains. If you have solid walls, don't rush into internal insulation without expert advice; incorrect work can trap moisture and damage the wall. Instead, use soft furnishings, rugs and heavy curtains to make rooms feel warmer. Small changes add up. Work with your home's breathable construction and you can stay warmer, cut waste and keep the character that made you love the place.
